Tuesday 23 August 2016

Sangla – Chitkul – Kalpa – Nako – Tabo (10,760 Ft)

DAY 3 - SANGLA- CHITKUL- KALPA

Again at 5:00 am I woke up and peeped out of the window. I could not see anything. It was all white…. fog everywhere… I could just not see anything. As if the huge mountains which were there till last night are not there today morning. As I could not see anything outside the window I went back to bed. And after ten mins there was a knock on the door. Pramod was up and wanted some company. Gradually everyone got up and we spend some time doing absolutely nothing.

Today we could travel at leisure – there was no need to start early as we won’t be covering much distance today. After a breakfast of delicious aloo parathas and curd we headed to Chitkul which is the last village on the Indo – Tibet Border. The drive was picturesque and mesmerizing. On our way we stopped over at a waterfall and clicked some pictures.


Bridge En-route Chitkul
Bridge En-route Chitkul

En-route Chitkul
En-route Chitkul

Madness en-route Chitkul
Madness en-route Chitkul
If you thought Sangla was beautiful, wait till you see Chitkul; it will sweep you off your feet. It is a very small village with hardly 100 houses and is surrounded by the impressive Himalayas and River Baspa flowing nearby. There is absolutely nothing to do at this place except enjoying the scenic beauty. The only sound that you will hear in this place is that of the flowing Baspa and birds chirping.


Chitkul - The last village towards Tibet
Chitkul - The last village towards Tibet

River Baspa at Chitkul
River Baspa at Chitkul (freezing cold water)
We headed towards the River bed and enjoyed a walk near the flowing river. Did our ritual of clicking loads of pictures till it started drizzling and the valley turned into heaven.

Since it was drizzling we decided to have a hot cup of tea and piping hot maggi at “The Last Dhaba of Hindustan”.

Once the weather had cleared we headed to the beautiful temple located behind the main road of Chitkul. The architecture of this temple is exactly like the Berinag Temple at Sangla. Chitkul remains close in winters due to snow and is very famous for its potatoes.


Temple at Chitkul
Temple at Chitkul

Close up of the temple, Chitkul
Close up of the temple, Chitkul
We were not ready to leave this place, but we had to head to another beautiful place in Kinnaur Kalpa. After a lip licking maggi and tea we hit the road again. For going to Kalpa, we had to head back to Sangla, reach the bridge near Karchamm and then follow the road to Sangla.


View en-route Kalpa
View en-route Kalpa
We had earlier decided to visit Kamru Fort in Sangla on our way back from Chitkul but we gave it a miss as we wanted to reach Kalpa in day light.

We had our lunch at Reckong Peo which is the district head quarter. You can also indulge yourself in shopping of Kinnauri Caps and Shawl.


Reckong Peo Market
Reckong Peo Market
After lunch and a bit of shopping (Alas!) we were again charged up for the beautiful town Kalpa. Once you reach the main market of the Recong Peo, there is a road that goes left, further uphill. Take this road and you will reach Kalpa roughly after 10 kms from here.


Reckong Peo - Snapshots
Reckong Peo - Snapshots
Kalpa is again located at a height and offers breath taking views of the Himalayas. Kalpa is famous for apple orchards and scenic beauty. The town boasts of a temple (same architecture as in Sangla & Chitkul) and Lochawa-La-Khang (Samdub Choeling) monastery. We had booked Hotel Golden Apple in Kalpa which was a very comfortable stay. We had a Himalayan mountain view facing room and the size of the room was huge, bigger than any room we had stayed in this trip so far.

We barely had an evening in Kalpa and I was not too hopeful of accomplishing much. After a much needed tea and coffee break, we strolled towards the town. It was very cold and windy. And we all had our woolens and caps on. The Peaks of Kinner Kailash were in full glory in Kalpa. After a twenty mins walk we reached the Buddhist monastery. It was the first Monastery which we saw in our trip… (many more to follow). We decided to first head to the Kinnaur style Temple which was a little further away. The way to the temple is through the school’s compound. The temple was again made in wood and huge. Since we arrived around 7 pm it was already closed and thus we could see it only from outside.


Kalpa
Kalpa

View from Kalpa
View from Kalpa

Mesmerizing Himalayas, Kalpa
Mesmerizing Himalayas, Kalpa
On our way back we stopped over at the Monastery. You need to climb four five steps and you will see the white colored stupa. On the right side of the Stupa is the monastery, which is lined on all four sides with prayer wheels.


Monastery at Kalpa
Monastery at Kalpa

Stupa at Kalpa
Stupa at Kalpa

Temple at Kalpa
Temple at Kalpa
Like all the monasteries it was very colorful with lots of ghee lanterns. There was a huge prayer wheel just when you enter the monastery on the right side. You can feel your body relaxing once you are inside the monastery.


Ghee Lanterns at Kalpa Monastery
Ghee Lanterns at Kalpa Monastery
After spending some time at the monastery we walked back to our hotel where we had a warm soup and a scrumptious dinner.

Sangla and Kalpa are two places where we saw some breathtaking views of the Himalayas. These two towns are perfect places to find solace amidst Himalayas. I wish I could have spend more time here, doing nothing, just wandering here and there and taking in the view of the mountains which keep mesmerizing you every second.

DAY 4 - KALPA- POOH- KHAB- NAKO- SUMDO- TABO

As usual I got up early morning and peeked out of my window and what I saw outside left me speechless. I was out of my room with my camera in a jiffy and heading to the terrace. Once up there it took me a while to switch on the camera because I didn’t want to stop looking at the beautiful landscape in front of me. It seemed so surreal I didn’t want to blink even once… 


Early morning view from Hotel at Kalpa
Early morning view from Hotel at Kalpa

Kalpa
Isn't it breathtaking beautiful??

Kalpa
I wish I could stay here forever
Finally after a while I switched on the camera (when I could not bear the cold any further) and took some pictures. I went on clicking to get the perfect picture but moments like these can never be captured in images, they can just be experienced. 

After taking some pictures I headed down to wake Nikhil and Nikki.. to see the beautiful gift nature has given us early morning.

Today, we had a long distance to cover, therefore we started early. Once again we had to travel back on the same road to the point where we took the turn at Reckong Peo. Once back on the highway, we headed towards Pooh (no connection whatsoever with Winnie the Pooh). The roads were a disaster. They were typical mountain roads, with lot of wear and tear due to continuous landslides.


Confluence of Sutlej and Spiti
Confluence of Sutlej and Spiti
On our way we crossed the point of confluence of River Sutlej (from China) and River Spiti. 


Hair Pin bends
Hair Pin bends

View En route to Nako
View En route to Nako
After Pooh, the roads were again smooth. Pretty soon we found our self amidst rock mountains and hair pin bends.


En-route Tabo
What a view

En route Tabo
Clear Blue Sky
It was after Khab that we had a tire puncture. We reached Nako around lunch time.. Nako has nothing much to offer other than Nako Lake. It is a very small and silent village. The Lake is actually a pond with emerald color water.

Nako Village
Nako Village

Nako Lake
Nako Lake
We were all a little disappointed after the Nako Lake. Very near Nako we stopped over for a simple lunch of rajma and chawal. Since we had used our spare tire, our driver asked another tourist Innova (our driver knew that car’s driver) to accompany us as they were also heading to Tabo. On our way to Tabo we got our spare tire rectified and we were now good to go.

Near Nako
Near Nako

Lunch near Nako - Rajma Chawal and Onion..
Lunch near Nako - Rajma Chawal and Onion..
A few kms before Tabo, we came across a cemented gate on our right which heads to Gue Village. Gue is famous for a 650 year old mummy and is worth a visit. From the gate it is an 8 kms drive and the mummy is placed on a hill top and is hard to miss. After visiting the mummy and taking few pictures we drove back 8 kms till the cemented gate and headed to Tabo.

Gue - Mummy & Monastery
Gue - Mummy & Monastery

Gue Village
Gue Village
Primary attraction of Tabo is a 1000 year old monastery and it is because of this monastery that Spiti came on the Travel World Map. There are many guesthouses to stay at Tabo including a guest house of the monastery. Tabo is located in the middle of the sand mountains and it had more foreigners than Indians.

We all were tired after a long day on road, so we decided to relax and visit the monastery tomorrow morning. We had tea and snacks in the guesthouse and then headed to our every evening ritual of transferring pictures and videos on Pramod’s laptop and seeing the same.

After seeing all the pictures of the day we again headed downstairs for dinner. Tonight was the first night when Nikhil faced problem sleeping because of the altitude. He tried sleeping with his head raised by putting extra pillows under his head; he tried sleeping in a sitting position. It was a bad night for him.

Points to Note:


  • Book an Innova or a Xylo for a comfortable travel. As the roads are bad travel in Sumo or Maxx can be cumbersome.
  • Although the distance between places (at times) is not far because of the rough terrain it takes a considerable time to go from one place to another. So plan accordingly.
  • It is advised to start your day early and reach your destination while it is daylight. Please avoid driving once the sun sets. Driving in dark can be very dangerous.
  • Please carry warm clothes including sweater, jacket, cap, mufflers, socks and gloves. Wear shoes and not sandals or chappals.
  • Be easy on steps and while walking. Avoid brisk walk or running at high altitudes as the oxygen level is low.
  • If you are feeling mountain sickness have chocolate or popcorn. It helps. Make it a point of sipping in water regularly.
  • Please don’t litter and maintain the beauty of nature.
  • In Kalpa we stayed at Hotel Golden Apple and in Tabo at Hotel Tiger Den. The rooms are huge in Hotel Golden Apple with beautiful view from rooms and terrace. The monastery and the temple at Kalpa are ten mins walk from the hotel. The rooms in Hotel Tiger Den are small but it is very close to Tabo Monastery. Tabo, as such, is a very small village.
  • Don't miss taking the extra drive to Chitkul from Sangla. Its worth the drive. The views are beautiful.
  • You can stop at Nako for lunch and can see the lake. Also, before Tabo take a turn and drive extra 8 kms to see the mummy at Gue. 
  • Don't forget to stop over and appreciate the views. After all the journey is as important as the destination.

Friday 12 August 2016

Chandigarh – Narkanda – Sarahan – Sangla (8,900 Ft)

DAY 1 : CHANDIGARH – SHIMLA – KUFRI – NARKANDA (8,650 Feet)

Finally after months of planning and research the day had come when we flew to Chandigarh to start our road trip to Spiti. We had booked a Go Air Flight from Mumbai to Chandigarh and had booked an Innova for the entire circuit: Chandigarh - Kinnaur - Spiti - Manali - Chandigarh.

We all met at the Mumbai Domestic Airport at 7:15 am for 8:35 am flight. Our flight got half an hour delayed and we landed at Chandigarh at 11:30 am approx.  Chandigarh airport has been newly revamped (ground floor for arrival, first floor for departure). We met our driver – Mr. Romi – a lean and tall smiling man, wearing his customary Kinnaur Cap.

Once our luggage was loaded, we were all set to start our EPIC Trip to Kinnaur & Spiti. From Chandigarh Airport we started towards Shimla and it was not long before we saw the beautiful view of the mountain range.




The hills, the clouds were soothing to our eyes. None of us had thought that we will be seeing the mountains within an hour of our landing in Chandigarh. Initially we all were so excited and talking non-stop --- see this.. oh look at that…  ahh see that peak… but after the initial excitement subsided we all were quietly admiring the beauty… taking it all in..




We were quite hungry and stopped over at a local dhaba named Shanty Bunty Da Punjabi Dhaba before Shimla for lunch and had our first finger licking dal makhani and naan with loads and loads of butter (Ymmmm... I love north indian food).




Shimla is one of the most popular hill station in Himachal Pradesh (other being Manali) and is a honey moon paradise. We could see mountains being broken in order to make a broader road till Shimla. After Solan, we were welcomed by cool breeze and it had started drizzling. There were times when we were not able to see the mountains as everything was covered with thick clouds.

Since it was a Saturday, many people were making their way to Shimla. Due to that there was heavy traffic and it took us a long time to cross Shimla. It felt as if I was in Mumbai again, just with a better view. Mall Road was packed, with crazy tourists buying everything in sight from Chappals to Jewellery to shawls. Half the traffic is because of tourists busy taking pictures and selfies. Post Shimla towards Kufri, there were hardly any vehicles on the road.

It was at Kufri some 13 Kms from Shimla, where we stopped to have some light snacks and tea. Just when we got out of the car, we realized that it was cold, infact very cold. We all looked for a light sweater or jacket. Once we got hold of some warm clothes we saw the beautiful view near our restaurant.


View from Kufri
View from Kufri
The mountain range, the clouds… it was beautiful. The valley is full of pine and deodar trees and so dense that you can hardly see the rugged brown colour of the mountains. We wanted to spend some more time here by just enjoying the view but then we had to reach Narkanda for our night stay. On our way we noticed that en route there are so many trees on the mountain that the only colour that we could see is green. But darkness slowly descended and we couldn’t see much of the stunning landscape en-route.

By the time we reached Narkanda, it was dark. Our homestay was a little ahead of the main town in a very remote area. During the drive from the main town to our home stay I felt as if I have come to the sets of ‘Twilight’ movie.


Narkanda
The Beautiful Narkanda
Narkanda is a beautiful location and if you have time you can visit Hatu Mata Temple. We didn’t have the time and therefore gave it a miss.

Narkanda could be a very chilly experience, so keep some woolens handy. The place where we stayed (Hatu Homestay) was in the middle of hills…. And therefore very chilly.. Our rooms were were nice and cozy with a sprawling balcony. The chilly winds compelled us to slip into our warm clothing and our belly was warmed by home cooked food which was simple and delicious.

There is nothing much to do at Narkanda except to relax and enjoy the natural beauty. Btw Narkanda is a skiing resort in winters. Before I realized, I had slipped into a peaceful sleep satisfied with my day.

DAY 2 - NARKANDA- RAMPUR- SARAHAN- WANGTOO- SANGLA (8,900 Feet)

Dot at 5 am, I opened my eyes. (It’s a mystery how I wake up early at such places without an alarm). I got out of the warm bed to have a look at the mountains in the morning. From the balcony I could see the mountains covered with thick pine trees as if they are wearing a dark green colour robe. The clouds were like a crown on their head. I sat in the balcony for some time appreciating the view and solace.

After a while I went to wake everyone up. Since it was going to be a long day for us on the road and we had decided to stop over at Sarahan to see the Bhimkali Temple, we started our day early.

After a simple bread butter, omelet and tea we hit the road. It was cloudy and little chilly in the morning. After driving for 15-20 kms from Narkanda we saw the first view of River Sutlej. The roads were in good condition and quite scenic, with the mighty river flowing on your left.

Sarahan’s primary attraction is Bhimkali Temple (one of the 51 shakti peeths), dedicated to goddess Bhimkali. Sarahan is a small place but you could find decent accommodation here if you decide to stay overnight and enjoy the relaxed atmosphere of this place.


Bhimkali temple, Sarahan
Bhimkali Temple, Sarahan



Inside Bhimkali Temple Compound
Inside Bhimkali Temple Compound
At the vicinity of the temple you will get to see the green carpeted mountains and in the middle of these mountains will be equally beautiful temple of Goddess Kali. The temple is made in a unique style with wood and is simple amazing.

You are not allowed to carry your cameras and mobile phones inside the temple and have to cover your head. You can cover it with any cloth or there are caps (made available by the temple – free of charge) which you can use.

The temple is carved in wood and the doors are made of silver. You have to climb three floors to reach the deity’s worship place. After your visit to the temple, stroll around the compound; appreciate the simplicity and uniqueness of the temple.


Unique architecture of Bhimkali Temple, Sarahan
Unique architecture of Bhimkali Temple, Sarahan
Treat yourself with some aloo samosa near the temple… they are delicious.

Post Sarahan, the road quality deteriorates near Wangtu. At Karcham you will see the huge dam on the river Sutlej. After the dam, there is a bridge where the road bifurcates for Kalpa and Sangla. Take the road to Sangla.


Muddy Road
The Muddy Road


Picturesque Journey 
After a few kms uphill you will enter the beautiful Sangla Valley. The drive from Karcham to Sangla is very scenic. The road is surrounded by think forest slopes offering lovely views of the high mountains. You will feel the drop in the temperature and Baspa River flowing along with you.


The Beautiful way to Sangla
The Beautiful way to Sangla

Enroute Sangla
Enroute Sangla
Sangla is a big town and has several guest houses available. We stayed over at Prakash Guesthouse – the rooms were spacious, hill facing and hot water was available. A tip – have your bath whenever the hot water is available, as power goes often, hence there is no guarantee of 24 hours hot water.


Clouds playing with the Mountains
Clouds playing with the Mountains

View from Sangla

Another View from Sangla
Another View from Sangla

A Ray of Sun
A Ray of Sun
Sangla is located at a picturesque location and has Berinag Temple and Kamru Fort as attraction. At Sangla, if you are lucky with the sky being clear you can have a marvelous view of Kinner Kailash, a mountain sacred to Hindus. It was evening by the time we reached Sangla. After resting for an hour we headed to Nages Temple. It was a twenty mins walk from our guesthouse – in between which we saw the hide and seek of hills and clouds. 

Berinag Temple is again a temple in wood and has a Buddha Temple also in its compound. It’s a beautiful and ancient piece of architecture which will make you feel at peace. We saw some localities at the temple who had come to relax in the evening and catch up with each other. 


Berinag Temple, Sangla
Berinag Temple, Sangla
Inside Berinag Temple
Inside Berinag Temple
By the time we had reached the temple, the inner sanctum doors were closed. The temple closes by 7-7:30 pm, so make sure you reach before then. Since it was already getting dark we decided to head back to our hotel.

Points to Note:


  • Book an Innova or a Xylo for a comfortable travel. As the roads are bad travel in Sumo or Maxx can be cumbersome.
  • Although the distance between places (at times) is not far because of the rough terrain it takes a considerable time to go from one place to another. So plan accordingly.
  • It is advised to start your day early and reach your destination while it is daylight. Please avoid driving once the sun sets. Driving in dark can be very dangerous.
  • Please carry warm clothes including sweater, jacket, cap, mufflers, socks and gloves. Wear shoes and not sandals or chappals.
  • Be easy on steps and while walking. Avoid brisk walk or running at high altitudes as the oxygen level is low.
  • If you are feeling mountain sickness have chocolate or popcorn. It helps. Make it a point of sipping in water regularly.
  • Please don’t litter and maintain the beauty of nature.
  • In Narkanda we stayed at Hatu Peak Guesthouse and in Sangla at Prakash Guesthouse. In both the places are rooms are cosy and the food delicious.
  • Don't forget to stop over and appreciate the views. After all the journey is as important as the destination.





Monday 8 August 2016

Road Trip around Spiti Valley in 10 Days

We had come back from our wonderful trip to Kerala and Lakshadweep in October 2015 and it was in the month of January 2016 when I started pondering on “where to go next?”

I was keen on revisiting Ladakh but had still not made my mind. That is when I saw a picture of Kee Monastery… and bang… I got the answer to my question..


Kee Monastery
Kee Monastery
By February I had researched quite a bit on Spiti and had decided to do a road trip to Kinnaur and Spiti Valley in the month of July. Spiti according to me is a world inside another world because of its remoteness. There is no airport in Spiti, closest airport being Shimla or Kullu. Spiti Valley is one of the gemstone in Himachal Pradesh, which most of the people are not even aware about.

Situated at the North East region of Himachal Pradesh, it is a part of Lahaul and Spiti District. Rohtang Pass at 13,045 feet (3,979 m) separates Lahaul and Spiti from Kullu Valley. And Lahaul and Spiti are separated by Kunzum Pass at 15,059 feet (4,590 m) which offers breathtaking views.

Calling it a paradise on earth won’t be wrong; as the world’s mightiest mountain range – the Himalayas – makes Spiti a perfect destination for adventure travel seekers.   

Home to a numerous Buddhist Monasteries, white washed houses, breathtaking mountains, Spiti feels even more remote and rugged than Ladakh. The valley is also home to one of the nest road trips in Asia – Spiti - Kinnaur Route.

What else do you need for a memorable holiday???

In the first week of July this year, five and a half of us – Pramod, Preeti, Taashi (half), Nikhil, Nikki (my sister – first time on our annual vacation) and me - embarked on a trip to the less popular but equally surreal cousin of Ladakh : Spiti Valley, Himachal Pradesh.

After our visit to Sikkim, finally I was back to where I belong, “The Mighty Himalayan Peaks”.

It is said that the journey is more important than the destination and this trip proves just that.

Before sharing my road trip experience in detail to Kinnaur & Spiti, I want to share a glimpse of our trip.


Tribal Circuit
Tribal Circuit
We did the Tribal Circuit – Entering from Shimla, passing through Kinnaur region, entering Spiti and exiting from Manali.

Our itinerary for this trip was as follows:


Day 1 - Chandigarh- Shimla- Kufri- Narkanda
Day 2 - Narkanda- Rampur- Sarahan- Wangtoo- Sangla
Day 3 - Sangla- Chitkul- Kalpa
Day 4 – Kalpa- Pooh- Khab- Nako- Sumdo- Tabo
Day 5 -  Tabo- Dhankar- Kaza
Day 6 - Kaza- Kye- Khibber- Kaza
Day 7 - Kaza- Hikkim- Komic- Langza-Kaza
Day 8 - Kaza- Lohsar- Kunzum Pass- Chandrataal Lake
Day 9 - Chandrataal- Batal- Chatru- Gramphoo- Rohtang Pass- Manali
Day 10 - Manali- Kullu- Mandi- Chandigarh- Mumbai


Some of the pics to give you a sense of the beauty:

Narkanda
View at Narkanda

Beautiful Hills
Beautiful Hills

Mesmerizing Himalayas
Mesmerizing Himalayas

Kalpa
Kalpa

Kibber Village
Kibber Village

Buddha Statue at Langza
Buddha Statue at Langza

Chandrataal
ChandraTaal

Kunzum Pass
Kunzum Pass
Stay tuned for the day by day detailed description of our trip to Kinnaur & Spiti. This is the journey to the roads less travelled… literally!!!